2023 has been one of the most pivotal years we’ve seen for the fashion industry in a long time. From the rise and fall of multiple niche aesthetics to several major labels and brands being completely reinvented (we’re looking at you, Gucci), there’s little we haven’t seen in the past twelve months. But one of the most dramatic changes the fashion industry has undergone is the gap between real life and the runway being bridged. Everybody has taken a keen interest in what’s real: down-to-earth creators and relatable A-lists, attainable styles and brand transparency. That is, with the exception of the increasingly vast market of dupes.
Replicas vs. Alternatives
Dupe culture used to be generally exclusive to the “black market” of fashion: you know, vendors spilling over with counterfeits and knockoff designer items, barely altered, if at all, for the sake of an unlikely copyright case. People wanted the label without spending the cash- understandable.
Today, however, virtually every coveted item in the fashion and beauty industry has some dupe or another, leading brands to shift from focusing on their own production to subtly using influencers to market their existing lines and products as dupes for others’. But the difference is that now, it’s no secret. Dupes have gone from being something most consumers were ashamed to admit to owning to one of the most advertised (and likewise searched for) shopping categories on platforms like TikTok and Instagram in a matter of months.
via @bellafleurzs on Instagram
This shift in consumerism and marketing has led to an interesting combination of pros and cons for the fashion industry, and has presented quite the world for buyers and sellers alike to navigate.
Moral Consumption
There are several caveats that come with a good dupe, and most of them can be challenging to pick out, given how saturated the current market is. First things first, we have to consider the ethics behind how and where we shop. A massive part of dupe culture is rooted in consumers unknowingly fueling overconsumption and unethical mass production. Most (not all) of the companies that are well known for being sources of fashion and beauty’s favorite dupes fall into the fast fashion category, and some are even shameless about it.
We’re all aware of H&M’s long history of designer collaborations, H&M x Mugler and H&M x Balmain being among some of the more popular. And while H&M has been known for dipping their toes in some unethical practices, H&M Group is still one of the most successful multinational clothing companies in the landscape, which is undeniably tempting to particular designers who then go on to “dupe” their own designs in collaboration with the company to attract a wider audience. Of course, H&M is only one of many participants in the glamorization of unethical replications, and perhaps could even be applauded for their transparency (though selective), because there certainly are worse ways to go about a dupe.
Behind the scenes of Rabanne x H&M, via @rabanne on Instagram
When the production of replicas goes under the table, for example, we’re forced to juggle a completely separate issue: it damages the reputation and desirability of existing labels. We already knew big-name brands were going to see a drop in popularity after the rise of quiet luxury this year, but the difference here is that in a lot of cases, dupe culture poses a more localized threat to logo-heavy labels if it begins to cross lines. Because it’s not only prominent players that can fall victim to the production of replicas, but small businesses with significantly more to lose.
An increasing number of lawsuits have been filed over stolen designs, dupes, and replicas this year, primarily by smaller businesses and designers. Even when dupes aren’t matched in quality or aren’t comparable detail-by-detail, they can still threaten the success of companies with more reputable foundations. The problem is that most dupe culture victims can’t afford to sue the traditionally fast fashion monopolies that come after them. So, where does the responsibility shift? To the consumers.
There is a level of responsibility that comes with investing in our closets that goes beyond what we can physically put on our backs. If we educate ourselves on where our clothes come from, we can easily redirect success in the market from brands that push unethical dupes and replicas to those who provide sustainable and transparent originals and alternatives only when occasion calls.
When vs. When Not to Buy the Next Best Thing
So how do we know when it’s right to snag a dupe, and when we should opt for the original (because there is, after all, a bright side of dupe culture)? Research. It’s that simple. We covered earlier that honest dupes are no longer something to be ashamed of if your product comes from the right brand with the right purpose. For example, by fashion’s very informal definition, dupes are just alternatives. We see this come into play when cult classic items are out of stock or discontinued, and consumers want to find something similar. Or sometimes, the ethics tables turn, and a dupe can be a more sustainable alternative to an original, even if it’s more expensive. Either way, the positive impact of dupes in 2023 is allowing brands to practice more honest outlooks in marketing, provided they’re willing.
via @vivalavika_com on Instagram
So, what do we have to say about replicas then? Avoid them. There’s virtually nothing justifiable about sellers who copy and paste- or, let’s be honest, steal– designs from another designer or label. If you want the real thing badly enough, invest in it, and if not, as opposed to choosing to imply that you own the real deal, find a dupe that fits your needs and still makes you proud to own. The bottom line is to buy and enjoy your honest dupes and avoid unethical replicas. It’s that simple.
By Mackenzie Ostrowski
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