Regardless of whether you’re interested in the luxury market, there’s no doubt you’ve heard the name Phoebe Philo at some point, especially within the last month. And in 2023, that’s no small accomplishment on Philo’s part. In a market where brand names exceed the popularity of individual designers, to be known for personal work across the industry in multiple divisions- in Philo’s case, from creative direction to design- can only mean one thing: history is in the making. Read about Phoebe Philo’s journey to success and recent grip on the industry:
Who is Phoebe Philo?
While currently most popular for her namesake label, Phoebe first broke into the industry after developing an interest in design when she was a young teenager living in London. After graduating from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1996, she went on to join Chloé as Stella McCartney’s first assistant- a position that landed her the role of creative director in 2001. Her work marked a massive turn in the right direction for Chloé, Phoebe being responsible for several of their most iconic pieces.
via Phoebe Philo Official Website
Much to the heartbreak of her enthusiasts, she stepped away from Chloé in 2006 to focus on her family and role as a new mother, a period in which she toyed with the concept of developing her own line but ultimately decided it wasn’t the right time (yet). So, in 2008, when multinational conglomerate LVMH offered Philo a job as creative director and board member of Céline, she took the job that would eventually lead her to become one of modern fashion’s most critically acclaimed individuals. During the ten years she spent with the brand, Philo “made Céline matter in a way it never had before,” according to New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman. But again, in 2017, she resigned herself from the scene.
Her following hiatus felt like it lasted a lifetime to many enthusiasts, spanning nearly six years until, in 2021, she finally made an announcement that would change the game: Phoebe Philo, the label, was on its way.
Fashion’s Favorite Namesake
After multiple delays, Philo’s first collection officially debuted in October 2023 with a highly unique approach. Philo gave a rigid “no” to any advertising, shows, or aggressive marketing campaigns. Nonetheless, its off-the-bat success was exponential.
via Phoebe Philo Official Website
“The owner of these clothes takes no guff from anyone. Wearing them would make you feel briskly prepared to go out and get stuff done, while allowing a degree of secret deviance,” Friedman also noted. The collection bridged a muted gap between 2023’s famed ‘quiet luxury’ aesthetic and a rougher, more dramatic take on minimalism and utilitarian fashion.
On November 28th, she dropped her second anticipated collection, rich with leather and suede, and selectively flamboyant and playful with pops of bright color and asymmetrical silhouettes.
via Phoebe Philo Official Website
Regarding pricing and sustainability, the Phoebe Philo official website doesn’t share much regarding materials and sourcing, and pricing can range anywhere from £450 to £12,000- a pretty penny for designs that aren’t generally complex. Sizes range up to a U.S. Size 12 (XS to XL), which can be considered decent in regards to such an exclusive label, but has nonetheless warranted a few consumer complaints. However, this hasn’t stopped the two collections from selling out in a matter of days each.
What to Expect
According to sources at WWD, Philo plans to release future edits on her own schedule rather than with the grain of the standardized fashion calendar. This decision was likely a tribute to the fact that the label was meant to be seasonless, each drop a part of one body of work.
via Phoebe Philo Official Website
As for the future of Phoebe Philo, given that her second collection is barely twenty-four hours old as of now (Nov. 29, 2023), there’s little official word regarding a third collection. That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be expecting it, however. Though Philo may not necessarily be changing the directory of the fashion industry, she’s certainly making an inspirational breakthrough, and we’d be surprised to see her back down now.
By Mackenzie Ostrowski
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